By David Cox
To see the Tour de France in the Alps was a long standing cycling ambition of mine. Derek had been there twice before in the 1950's with a YHA tour and in the 1960's on a tandem, so he knew all the Cols and had seen an earlier Tour where Flit had been one of the sponsors. This had left him with the memorable experience of seeing a fleet of vans with monster dead flies lying upside down on their roofs ! So we packed two tents and two bikes into the car and drove 800 miles to camp in St Remy de Maurienne's basic municipal site.
We struggled up to the Croix de Feu via the Col de Glandon the first afternoon to get the lie of the land for the race the next day. This was a steep climb, Derek tore off ahead while I twiddled up in the Bike Friday's lowest crawler gear. Kilometre posts showed it was only another two miles to the top but at 2 mph that was an hour away !!
Derek on his higher geared bike walked the last bit but was still moving faster than me. The descent was much more fun and we were set up for the next day.
Then the weather broke over night with thunderstorms followed by cold, cloud and heavy rain. We took the car up and dressed in full walking gear, joined the shivering crowds on the Croix to await the riders. It was bitterly cold and the few cyclists were close to hypothermia after the two hour wait. The Tour is not a very ecological event! The spectators' diesel cars and campers, the publicity caravan, support cars/vans, motorbikes and three helicopters fill the Col with noise and fumes long before the peleton powers through. It was impressive to see the riders racing up hill in such conditions. This was the day Pantani made his break but we saw most of that in a bar down in the town.
Next day was much improved although still cold and cloudy on the tops. We did the classic Tour thing and rode up to the Col de Madelaine as the road closed to cars and to the amusement of the waiting crowds. This was a long steady climb and I was pleased to find a gear and pace that suited me and ascend at a pace that was slower than many but faster than others. We settled down on the Col and awaited the caravan throwing out trinkets, sachets (coffee, pasta, sunoil, bath salts, caps, leaflets and videos that came out like depth charges clattering the odd cyclists and acquisitive spectator). This time we could get into the excitement as Ullrich and Pantani steamed over the Col well clear of the peleton and ahead of schedule - there was no time to get a camera out !
Wednesday was fine and sunny and we rode off 35 miles to catch the race on a hillside above Lescheraines. We climbed the Col de Frene - getting fitter all the time and found ourselves in the Bauges - exquisite hills and high valleys ideal for cycle touring - who needs a race ? Well we didn't get one. After a two hour wait on a pretty hillside with happy locals and picnickers we noticed that those with radios and portable TVs were going home. The wretched caravan stopped on the hill for a while with publicity girls from different companies swapping momentos with each other - one frisbee for a few sunhats, awaiting a signal to proceed and ignoring the spectators. It was clear that something was very wrong we learned later that down in the valley teams were withdrawing and riders going on strike and go-slows over the police handling of the drugs enquiry. We had to get back to the campsite before evening and could not wait any longer, a beautiful day's cycling but a bit of an anti-climax.
Next day it was the long drive home. Was it worth it? Yes although it was marred by the drugs controversy. Most of the French public supported the riders and Festina, the watch making sponsors of the first team to be withdrawn, have probably gained initially from sympathetic consumers. While the best way to follow the Tour is undoubtedly on the TV, you get a buzz from the excitement and from cycling in your own humble way over the roads that Pantani and Ullrich are just about the race over. Pedalling yourself up the Cols certainly generates respect for the strength and determination of the riders.
The Bike Friday took up marginally less room in the car than Derek's racing bike but its main benefits were the wide ratio gearing of the Sachs 3x7 system, the stiff rear triangle, the V brakes, the H bars and the quick fit mudguards. It climbed well and was fun on the descents. I did see a Bike Tuesday tandem on the Madelaine but no other small wheelers or folders. A to B Magazine's sensibilities may be upset by the 1600 mile car journey but car supported camping suited us. There is, however, a TGV train that goes up the valley we were in heading for Turin - so a folder and a lightweight tent (or pre-booked accommodation) makes the Bauges and Maurienne Alps accessible for more ecological touring. The Tour itself is an amazing athletic feat but must involve more motor vehicles than bikes. The descent of the Col de Madelaine ended up in 7-8 miles of gridlock as spectators tried to exit to the T junction in Chambre. It was good fun to coast down the outside at speed on full gravity drive watching out for the odd turning camper van and drivers opening doors to take off jackets as they warmed up.
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Last updated: 5 August 1998
Copyright (C)1998 David Cox
URL: http://www.whooper.demon.co.uk/bfriday/tourrep.html